Trying to explain Viva Las Vegas Rockabilly Weekender to someone who’s never been is difficult at best. Trying to write about it while you’re in the middle of the most intensively fantastic weekend of the year is nigh on impossible – see my previous attempts when writing for UK Rock n Roll Magazine (RIP). Imagine everything you think a weekender was going to be like before you started going to them, amplify it by eleven, pitch it in a desert and you’re about halfway there.

Before you make the first trip, as I did in 2022, everyone is keen to give you advice. Remember to drink water. Dress to impress. When you arrive at your first Viva, everyone you meet will be doubly keen to give you tips, most of which will likely be more helpful. When the weekender gets into your bloodstream like an ice cold Dos Equis, you find yourself reflecting on everything you were told and then tossing a lot of it to the wind, making your own mental guidebook for your next visit to Vegas. Along with wearing comfortable shoes, these are my loose rules on How To Viva.

1. Don’t skip the Pre-Parties.

For my Vivas, the party starts at Rockin’ Betties. The arts district in Las Vegas plays host to midday courtyard party behind the celebrated vintage shop, with bands, ice cream, and that most precious of commodities: shade. This is where you’ll find your first favourite bands of the weekend: for me, Los Pistoleros with their scrappy Green Day vocals and punkish psychobilly sound were a highlight along with the ramshackle country stylings of the Hot Rod Hillbillies. 

From there, you face a choice. Head downtown to catch a show (this year it was the Delta Bombers), get into the Orleans for the first of the weekend’s Record Hops, or just rest your feet at the Hotel pool. We took the classy option and headed over the Sand Dollar Lounge to catch Lady Luck Lexy in her element followed by the bluesy Holy Smokes as the evening finally got cool in every sense of the word.

2. Be open to finding your new favourite band

As soon as you see the lineup, some names will jump out at you and some will get lost in the haze of the list. It happens to us all, even if you’re a sort-of-professional writer. But take the plunge and check out that band who you know nothing about or think you might hate, because they could be your next favourites. 

The Escobars covering ‘Dig A Hole’ was an unexpected joy for those of us who made it in for their early slot, and Dani West ‘Ambush’ed us with her debut solo single and tremendous stage presence. ‘Peter’s Place’ from the Barntwisters was an absolute delight, and the gleeful Earl Jackson’s rip-roaring Chuck Berry guitar became a highlight. As someone who thinks they don’t like vocal harmony groups, I was proven wrong by the Extraordinaires and Lil Mo and the Dynaflos who have to be some of the finest out there. While I already knew that Western Swing was somewhat of a guilty pleasure, seeing the Honkytonk Wranglers do their thing was astonishing. If you’ve never heard of cholo music, Pachuco Jose is the ultimate tour guide through the magnificent Mexican sub-genre that spices up the evening.

Even if you have a favourite on the bill, be ready to see them in a new light. Of course, Linda Gail Lewis was a highlight for most of the crowd, but hearing her cover ‘Funnel Of Love’ and realising how perfectly it suited her voice was a revelation. If you weren’t a huge fan of Angela Tini already, you would be by the time you’ve heard her new album tracks live for the first time. 

3. Don’t forget the DJs

This year, London’s own The Two Rs Club took over the second room and packed the dance floor, just proving that the DJs are such a huge part of Viva. Whether it’s Jivin’ Jim Dandy and Lady Luck Lexy spinning the decks at the pool party or a late night record hop powering you through, there’s always vinyl for the fans being spun.

4. Stay awake for the Late Nite Showcase

For me, it was the $4 black coffees. For others, Red Bull from the 7/11 or a strategic nap. However you want to do it, you don’t want to miss the Late Nite Show Showcases. The first this year was started with tribute to the late Vicky Tafoya, and finished with rising stars Bo Peep and the Backbeat. Day Two saw Shanda and the Howlers kick the late night off and closed with he magnificent Downhill Fast Az. It’s absolutely always worth staying up for, especially if you can snag a seat in between bopping. 

5. Saturday is Car Show Day

Shopping, classic cars and hanging with your friends? Saturday is what Viva Las Vegas is all about. Thanks to Chex and the Lordsmen Car Clubs, we got camping chairs with a great view of the stage and only a short walk to the bars with ice cold beers and the vendors with their gorgeous vintage wear. Wild Records artist Gizelle braved the wind to deliver a fantastic set, followed by the piano mastery of Jason D Williams. We were most excited for country hero Dale Watson and our favourite swedes, the Go Getters, though, and the absolute joy at hearing ‘Welcome To My Hell’ blasted through a sun-drenched parking lot after a day of gossip and tamales is unmatched. 

6. Expect the Unexpected

Surely a Slap Bass Workshop would only be interested to our bass-playing friends? No way. Djordje took us on a whirlwind tour of Slap Bass history with the help of Laura Palmer and a host of special guests. Hillbillyfest? Isn’t that for farmers? Nope. We got to see Mimi Roman, the legendary Brooklyn cowgirl, onstage alongside what felt like a total education in the country side of the sound. Going shopping for a new belt and you run into a member of the Stray Cats? Impossible, but it happened, and Slim Jim Phantom didn’t mind the fangirling one bit. That’s one of the most magical parts of Viva Las Vegas – you can never really anticipate what’s going to happen next. 

We knew the Jive Aces would put on a brilliant show, but calling what felt like every act at Viva onstage for their closing number was a delightful surprise. Carlos and the Bandidos covering Alison Krauss’ ‘My Poor Old Heart’ on the main stage was enough to melt the most hardened rockabilly heart, and seeing a whole dancefloor in magnificent form enjoying every second of the Alpha Rhythm Kings is the sort of vision that you can’t shake. 

7. You can’t do it all, and that’s okay.

I did the maths, and if you tried to do everything Viva Las Vegas had on offer then you’d be partying for a solid hundred hours over the weekend. While I’m no lightweight, that’s a tall order. That’s the only downside to Viva: you will always miss out on something. 

I opted for a slap-up breakfast instead of going to the morning Jive Dancing class, picked the Slap Bass Workshop instead of seeing Los Moontones, and went ‘Jumping From Six To Six’ with Big Sandy and the Fly-Rite Boys instead of hitting up the Guitar Geek show to learn from Deke Dickerson. The Burlesque Showcase clashed with RnB Showcase, and I wasn’t going to miss a chance to dance. It’s always tough to pick your favourites, and there’s a measure of acceptance that you have to adopt. There’s always next Viva, after all. 

Kate Allvey

With thanks to the entire Viva Las Vegas team. All photos: Kyle Peterson.